Sewing-machine



(No Mdl.) 3 Sheets-Sheet 1. Z. T. FRENCH & F. J. PREESE.

SEWING MACHINE.

No. 427,068. Patented May 6. 1890.

m: uunm: PETERS ca, PHOTO-HIKE, WASHINGTON, u. c.

3 Sheets-Sheet 2.

(No Model.) I

Z. T. FRENCH 8v F. J. PEP-ESE.

SEWINGMAOHINE. 7 No. 427,068. Patented May 6, 1890.

Zaeka y T 3-Sheets-Sheet 3. & F. J. FRBESE.

MACHINE.

(No Model.)

Z. T. FRENCH V 'snwme N0. 427,068.

Patented May 6 FFICEo A'rnNr ZAOI-IARY T. FRENCH, OF BOSTON, AND FRANCISJ. FREESE, OF LOWVELL, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 427,068, dated May 6,1890.

Application filed May 22, 1888. Serial No. 274,671. (No model.) I

To all whmn it may concern:

Be it known that we, ZAOHARY T. FRENCH, of Boston, county of Suffolk,State of Massachusetts, and FRANCIS J. FREEsE, of Lowell, county ofMiddlesex, State of Massachusetts,

have invented an Improvement in Sewing Machines, of which the followingdescription, in connection with the accompanying drawings, is aspecification, like letters on the drawings representing like parts.

This invention is an improvement on the machine described in UnitedStates Patent No. 117,596, dated August 1, 1871, to which reference maybe had. The machine described in the said patent contains a hook-gageand a bender, and in practice the hook-gage has to be removed from theshoe before the seam uniting the sole and upper can be finished, andafter the removal of the hook-gage the bender is actuated as beforeuntil the seam is completed. It has been found that when the benderalone is used the sole-edge acted upon by the bender is pushed in toofar toward the last, thus making it excessively difficult, if not quiteimpossible, to make the finishingstitches uniform in appearance withthosemade before the hook-gage was removed. To obviate this difficultyWe have provided means whereby when the hook-gage is removed the benderhas given to it a shorter stroke.

Another feature of our invention consists in means for lifting thepresser-foot or removing the pressure from the material when the same isto be fed.

Another feature of our invention consists in means for actuating thehooked needle; also, in the combination, with the needle-carrying barand vibrating lever-arm for reciprocating it, of an open-slotted hookedarm, whereby the needle-bar may be readily removed from the machine.

Figure 1 in side elevation shows a sewingmachine for turned work, itembodying our invention. Figs. 2 and 3 are details to be described; Fig.i, a partial elevation taken from the left of Fig. 1. Fig. 5 is a planview of the hook-gage; Fig. 6, an inner side view of the guide-block onwhich rests the hook gage; Fig. 7, a detail showing part of the cam foractuating the rocking lever 1', the said cam being made in the peripheryof the hub of the feed-cam p and Fig. 8, a detail of the lever andeccentric for actuating the locking device holding the hook-gage inplace. Fig. 9, on a scale larger than in Fig. 1, shows a detailrepresenting the chief parts instrumental The awl e, thread-guide f,throat-plate h,

rocking lever i, to which it is attached, the stationary rod 71?,forming the fulcrum for the said lever 1 the hook-gage m, bender q,presser or channel foot 12 and rocking lever 0 free to oscillate on astationary shaft (P, are all substantially as in United States PatentNo. 117 ,596, where they are all designated by like letters.

The frame-Work A, secured to the column A, has an overhanging arm A atthe front end of which is the head A in which slides the awl-bar a, itderiving its movement from the link a, attached to a stud a on a disk,or it may be an arm 00* of a rockshaft (6, pro vided at its rear endwith an arm (4 having jointed to it the end of a connecting-rod a,provided with a strap embracing an eccentric on the camshaft a. The headhas attached to it the guard or fender 1), against which bears the bodyof the sole, the edge of which is being clamped between the hook-gageand bender. The thread-guide f is carried by a vertical rod f, providedwith a crank joined by a connecting-rod f to an arm of a rocking lever fsupported on a stud f one arm .of the lever having a roll which enters agroove of a cam f The hooked needle I) is connected to a rod Z9 extendedloosely through a needle-bar (see dotted lines, Fig. 4,) the said rod Z7(shown chiefly by dotted lines, Fig. 4) having fastened to its lower endan arm 12 which is normally held pressed toward a lever b by a spring2,,connected to the said rod 19 and bar b and coiled about the said rod,as shown in Fig. i. The lever Z1 is pivoted upon a stud I), screwed intothe needle-carrier 17 Then the carrier 12 is lifted, as will bedescribed, the short nearly-horizontal arm of the lever b meets theadjustable cam-block U, which vibrates the said lever, throwing itslonger arm away from the arm I), the short arm of the lever 11 passingabove the camblock 19 while the needle enters the stock to take thethread from the thread-guide, the needle at the same time acting inusual manner to feed the stock. As the needle descends with its loop,the short arm of the lever 11 again meet-s the cam block U, which latterturns the lever If, it resting against the arm I)", and through the saidarm partially rotates the rod b and its attached needle, so that thehook of the needle in its descent will not catch the previous loop yetheld on the shank of the needle, but will permit the said needle to drawthe loop then held in its hook through the old loop on its shank, thusobviating the employment of a cast-off. To prevent the lever 11 as itsend meets the block b from being swung too far, as it might be when themachine is being run rapidly, we have provided for the said lever a stopb The needle -carrier 19 has at its rear side (see Fig. 1) a stud b uponwhich is pivoted a hooked link Z7 the shape of which is best shown bydotted lines, Fig. 4, the said link having an open loop, which is madeto hook over a stud b at the end of the arm I) of a rocking lever I),mounted on a fixed rod I), the said rocking lever having a second armI), provided with a roller or other stud, to enter a groove in the frontface of a cam b, fast to the main cam-shaft, the said rocking leveractuating the needle-carrier b at the proper times.

The cam 42, for actuating the throat-plate, is shown separately in Fig.7, together with a part of the cam 11 and a part of the rocking lever40, to be described.

The rocking lever 0 to which is attached the presser-foot 5 it enteringthe channel in the inner face of the usual sole, as common in turnedwork, and as provided for in the patent referred to, is mounted on thestationary shaft or rod (1 and one arm, as 4, (see Fig. 1,) of the saidrocking lever c has screwed into it the upper end of a rod 0 the saidrod above the arm of the rock-shaft being held by a set-nut (3, the saidscrew-rod below the arm 4 being surrounded by a spiral spring 7, whichrests upon a nut 5, screwed upon the lower end of the said rod 0 therotation of the nut adjusting the strength of the spring and theeffective force of the presser in the channel of the sole. The screw-rod0 above the spring is extended through an ear 8 of a rocking lever-malso loosely mounted on the rod or shaft (1 one arm, as 10, of the saidlever having a roller or other stud, which enters a groove in the sideof the cam 017 fast on the main shaft a.

When the shoe is to be fed, it must be released, and this is done bylifting the presserfoot and leaving the throat-plate 7L loose to descendslightly, as demanded by the mate rial being sewed, the bender 9 beingalso drawn back by its actuating devices. To do this, the cam m acts toturn the rocking lever m in the direction to cause the ear 8 to rise andact on the arm 4 of the presser-carrying rocker-lever 0 the spring 7serving, however, to keep the arm 4 in contact with the ear 8, andpreventing the presser-foot from being lifted too much, and while thepresser-foot is so lifted and the feed is taking place the roller orother stud 40* of a rocking lever 'i, carrying the throat-plate h 011the arm 40, comes opposite the depression 41 of the cam 42, (see Fig.7,) it being a peripheral cam made in the hub of the cam-p to bedescribed, fast on shaft a, which leaves the rocking lever 11 free to beturned slightly, thus permitting the throat-plate to also descendslightly to aid in freeing the work from pressure to permit it to be fedby the needle.

\Vhen it is desired to remove the needlecarrier for repairs orotherwise, the open-slotted hooked link I) may be swung'back against thespring 50 and be disengaged from the stud I). The needle-carrier slidesvertically in a head p at the end of a feed-carriage 19, fit ted toslide on the base of the machine, it being actuated, when it is desirousto cause the work to be fed by the needle, by a link p (see Fig. 4,)connected with a stud on a vibrating elbow-lever p deriving its motionfrom a cam 1), (partially shown in Figs. 1 and 4,) by breaking away theframe-work of usual construction and fast on the shaft a The hook-gage m(shown separately in Fig. 5 and as in working position, Fig. 1) has inits shank a hole m which receives in it a holding-stud 13, (see Fig. 6,)erected on a slide 14,

herein shown as serrated at its lower side and adapted to be locked inposition by means of a locking device 15, shown as a block (see Figs. 1and 6) mounted loosely on an eccen tric portion 43 of a rock-shaft 16,(shown enlarged in Fig. 8,) it having an arm 17, the front end of whichis entered loosely into a hole (see Fig. 1) in an arm of the rockinglever 2', to which is attached the throat-plate 7L, so that as thethroat-plate is released, as before described, and descends under theaction of the work upon it as the work is being fed, the said eccentricportion acts to move the locking device 15 to release the slide 14 andpermit it to move freely, to either enable the hook-gage to adapt itselfto any increas ing thickness of sole or to be moved by the spring 44 toadapt the hook-gage to any decreasing thickness of sole.

The slide 14, as well as the locking device, is shown as serrated, sothat one firmly engages the other, to thereby lock the slide and pin inplace to hold the hook-gage in proper position while the needlepenetrates the channel flap or lip of the sole, the slide being,however, free at proper times, as just prior to each stitch, to move asdescribed.

The under side of the hook-gage on rests upon a guide-blockm (shown asbroken out in Fig. 1 and in Fig. 6,) secured by bolts 20 to a plate 25,attached by screws 14 to the front end of a rocking lever on, looselymounted on the rod or shaft (1 The guide-block on has an arm 22, onwhich is pivoted a latch 23 under the control of a spring 24, the saidlatch acting upon the inner end of the hook-gage and holding the same inplace 011 the guide m and pin 13, the said latch through the spring 24keeping its hold on the shank of the said guide, notwithstanding thelatter has a slight movement of reciprocation, as stated, while the feedis taking place.

hen it is desired to remove the hook-gage m, the latch 23 will be turnedback away from it, and thereafter the said gage maybe easily lifted fromthe stud 13.

The bender-bar q, placed in a longitudinal guide-groove made in thethickened outer end of the rocking lever m has pivoted to it at 26 alink 29, slotted at its rear end, as at 45, to embrace a screw-stud 30of an arm of a rocking lever 46, (see Fig. 1,) mounted on a stud 47,fixed in the frame A, the said lever 46 at its rear end having a seconddownwardly-extended arm provided with a roller or other stud, whichenters a second groove 67 in the cam f. (See Fig. 1.) The slot 45 is ofgreater diameter than the stud 30, so that there is considerable lostmotion between the stud 30 and the link 29, and were it not for theauxiliary link 32, to be described, the bender would not be actuated forthe whole of the movement of the said stud.

The link 29 has pivoted upon itat 31 an auxiliary link 32, provided atits front end with a pin or projection 48, which, when the hookgage isin working position on the pin 13, is acted upon by the rear end of thehook-gage, so as to keep the beveled rear end 49 of the auxiliary link32 up, as shown by full lines, Figs. 1 and 2, against the stud 30, atwhich time the stud 30 will give to the bender-bar its full stroke, thehook-gage at such time being in working position in the shoe, and withits hook against the sole next the last. NVhen, however, the hook-gage mis removed to complete the shoe at the shank, then the sole, not beingsupported by the hook-gage, must be pushed upon' by the bender asbefore, for if the stroke of the bender is the same it tends to push thesole back so far against the last as to prevent the needle penetratingthe upper and sole at a uniform distance from the edge of the sole. Thisdecrease in throw of the benderis effected automatically, for when thehook-gage is withdrawn from the shoe the pin 48, no longer held by thehookgage, permits the heavier end 49 of the auxiliary lever 32 to dropand retire from the stud 30, thus permitting to come into play the lostmotion referred to, so that the bender is moved forward for a lessdistance than before as the final stitches for securing the upper andsole are being put in. The spring 66 keeps the rear end of the slot 45against the stud 30, and the pin 48 is also extended into a slot 87 inthe link 29, to thereby prevent the end 49 of the auxiliary link 32dropping too far when the hook-gage is removed, as stated. As therocking lever c is raised, as described, to enable the stock tobe fed,the said lever acts upon the lower end of an adjusting-screw 50, screwedinto the arm m, and lifts the same sufficiently to prevent any unduefriction of the bender upon the edge of the upper located between thebender and the throat h. The forward end of the bender is slotted tostraddle the needle.

The rocking lever c has attached to it an arm 51, provided with anadjusting-screw 52, the end of which rests in that part of the rockinglever m in which slides the bender, the adjustment of the screw 52adjusting the presser-foot with relation to the bender, so as toaccommodate for the thickness of the sole at the bottom of the channel.

The needle in Fig. 4 is shown as fully down, in which position the hookof the needle stands facing the operator. The hook of the needle facesthe operator while the needle rises, passes through and feeds the stock,and receives thread, at which time the needle commences to descend, andin so doing the lever I), carried by the needle-slide b meets thecam-block Z1", turns the lever b and causes it to strike the arm I) andturn 'the needle substantially a'quartereturn, thus enabling thedescending needle to draw its new loop through the old loop yet on itsshank ,but as soon as the lever b passes the cam-block, which it doesbefore the needle completes its descent, the spring 2 assumes control ofthe needle and restores it to its normal position, with its hook facingthe operator. In the machine described in the said patent the aw bar wasof the same diameter throughout, and its lower end terminated just abovethe gage b and thread-guide, and the awl was quite long. The longer theawl the greater its tendency to glance in the stock, thus making a holeoutof line with the needle. This glancing was a great objection, and toovercome it we had to devise some plan for shortening the awl, and to dothis we slabbed off a part of the lower end of the awl-bar, as shown inFig. 1, which enabledus to extend the awl-bar farther down, or enabledus to move the awl-bar below the guard 19 and thread-guide, and in thisway, the lower end of the awl-bar coming closer to the work, we

were enabled to shorten the awl about onethird.

WVe claim* I 1. In a sole-sewing machine, stitch-forming mechanism, thehook-gage to engage the inner side of the sole, the bender-bar q, theconnected link 29, and the arm or lever having a stud 30, combined withan auxiliary link or device, which is acted upon by the said stud toeffect the reciprocation of the benderbar while the said hook-gageengages the inner side of the sole, the removal of the hookgage, asdescribed, permitting the said auxiliary link or device to move out ofthe range of the said stud, the latter in its further movement actingthrough the link 29 to vary the length of the movement given to thebender-bar in its forward stroke, for the purposes set forth.

2. In a sole-sewing machine, the stitch forming mechanism, thebender-bar, the rocking armor lever in which it slides, the slotted link29, and the lever having a stud of less area than the slot in the saidlink, combined with the auxiliary link 32, pivoted on the link 29, tooperate substantially as described.

5. In a sole-sewing machine, the rocking lever 0 having an arm 4, andthe attached presser-foot, the rod 0 attached to the said arm, and thespring 7 on the said rod, combined with the lever m, its ear 8, and camto actuate the said lever m, substantially as described.

6. In a sole-sewing machine, the needlecarrying slide, the guidetherefor, and the cam-block b combined with the needle-bar, its spring2, arm Zr, and lever 11 to operate substantially as described.

'7. In a sole-sewing machine, the needlecarrying slide and the rockinglever Z), having the stud Z9 combined with the openslotted link W, tooperate substantially as described.

In testimony whereof we have signed our names to this specification inthe presence of two subscribing Witnesses.

' ZAOI-IARY T. FRENCH.

FRANCIS J. FREESE. WVitnesses:

G. W. GREGORY, B. DEWAR.

